A Festive, Sparkling Red Wine for the Holiday Season
“Wait, that exists?!?!” This was a response from a recent bar guest who had never heard of Lambrusco. These are the fascinating moments of discovery in my profession that make me happiest.
“Yes,” I said, “It’s a chilled, sparkling, red wine.”
“Well, sign me up—I’ve got to try this!”
Aside from its unique qualities, Lambrusco has an interesting history. Native of Emilia-Romagna, the northern/central province of Italy, just above Tuscany, for centuries Lambrusco was a dry, sparkling red wine that was a natural pairing to local cuisines. While there are variations in sweetness and hue, based on local tastes, terroirs, and dispositions, Lambrusco could generally be counted upon for a certain degree of reliable integrity.
Then came the 1970s and ’80s, when a madness to appeal to international markets transformed Lambrusco, for some producers, into a glorified alcoholic “soda.” We hear this story so often in the wine industry—be it for over-oaked Chardonnay, high-alcohol Cabernet Sauvignon, or jammy Merlot—trends can easily obscure original integrity.
Thankfully, in recent years, there has been a shift back to traditional production methods worldwide, offering an opportunity to experience wine with a greater sense of original context. Lambrusco falls into this category. Those who knew Lambrusco in the U.S. from decades back are often astonished at how much today’s version differs from their initial encounters. Those approaching it for the first time there are astonished by its novelty. Both of these scenarios are heartening.
Here in the winter months, especially at holiday time, I can’t think of a more festive wine. Drinking Lambrusco in the winter is like consuming a rubied portion of cold, dark, starry sky—effervescent, and naturally celebratory. And if other fictions may complicate the holidays, feel reassured in the ever-generous existence of Lambrusco.
