In late September, French food enthusiasts filled the rooms of OCabanon restaurant and boutique, in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood, for Pop-Up Marché.
“I don’t tend to lead with labels. I try to lead with ingredients and how something will make you feel,” she says.
This summer, when the New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells announced that he was hanging up his fork, a shudder was felt by a certain type of diner.
